The love of Latex

Sliding in

Providing a skin tight, second skin feel, it can keep or even enhance many of the tactile experiences (such as pettings) whilst providing a distinct aesthetic. From the featureless onyx black shine of slave dogs to the crazy colours seen in those choosing to express themselves through their design, latex garments and accessories are common across a range of kinks and even regular wear.

There are many reasons this material has become wide spread:

Look - clearly there is some draw to tight fitting garments. From neoprene wetsuits to Spandex clad superheroes, latex joins the list of materials that can be stretched around the physique to accentuate certain features whilst smoothing others. However not all latex has to be skin tight.
Feel - personally I believe latex has a unique feeling. Slipping into the body suit and pulling the zip shut, encasing you fully. Donning a hood and being clad head to toe in this in this amazing material. Then, as mentioned previously, the transformed sense of touch makes pettings a whole new experience.
Cleaning - sometimes there can be quite mucky pups. Whilst latex isn't impervious to stains, it does resist a wide range and wipes clean. However you can't just stick it in for a tumble dry, the garment should be hand washed after use.
Versatility - from a featureless drone to a colourful cabaret, latex can provide both the base and the accessent.

There are some downsides:

Heat - Latex is not breathable. Just as it won’t let liquids in, it won’t let liquids out. This can cause problems in temperature regulation, especially for full coverage. Sweat that should evaporate away heat is instead stuck between you and the latex, preventing the body’s natural cooling mechanism. This can cause overheating.
Cold - Conversely if a sweat layer is allowed to cool, the thin latex layer and high heat capacity of water means it will start to pull all heat out causing the opposite problem. Wearing latex can thus equally cause hypo or hyper thermia, depending on the enviroment. It can be difficult to get it "just right"!
Dehydration - Given the above issues with sweat, as the body tries to regulate, this can lead to dehydration effects. This can be further exhasibated by the strenious actuivites engaged in, or drinking (alcohol being a diuretic).
Punctures - the bain of rubber lovers. Latex is stretchy and relatively durable for normal wear. However most garments are only half a millimetre thick so extreme stretching, sharp objects etc. can cause rips. Usually you've not just got a suit to look good, you're usually engaging in activites. Playing around, jumping on balls, rolling on the ground etc. makes you very prone to damage. It's common place for me to repair my (and others) suites after a session. Luckily non-chlorinated latex can be easily repaired. This service is sometimes offered by the maker, or even other suppliers. However, if this requires posting or payment it can become a costly process. Alternatively you could repair it yourself. This is quite simple, effective and puts your mind at rest for future rips.

Equipment

Sheets

Radical Rubber (Medicated)
Supatex (4D rubber)
1300gsm wallpaper filler for patterning

Glue

Rubber Glue (Solvent based): Bostik 3851
Solvent: Bostik Cleaner No.4 (previously Bostik 6009)
Latex Milk (Water based): Radical Glue (previously RadicalBond2)

Hardware

Roller Cutter
Hand roller
Cutting board
Long plastic ruler (used for cutting against)
Gel pen for latex marking (metallic pencils as an alt.)
Glue brush
Glue palette knife
Container to mix glue/solvent that is air tight
Heat gun
Scissors
Washi tape
Non-fibre rags for cleaning

Washing

Fairy Liquid
Bath/washing machine (delicate, cold)
Vivishine for easy drip shine
Standard (no addative) silicon lube
Talc

Basic Repair/Glue

Similar to repairing a bike puncture (in fact I know people who have used puncture repair kits for their suit) all you need is some patching material, glue and some basic craft supplies.

This can also be extended to general rubber craft!

1. Measure

You should first decide what shape and size the patch is going to be. It needs to encompass the size of the rip and should extend a further centimeter around it to allow a firm and stable seam. Garments are usually locally flat, so taking account of curvature won’t be too much of an issue. However if it on an area where the shape is noticeable this should be accounted for.

With this you can create a pattern to cut from. Simple shapes could be patterned directly onto the latex, however anything requiring a more complex shape should first be done on patterning paper and transferred to latex. This also allows the pattern to be saved for latex use. A simple gel pen should suffice, in a distinct colour. Be wary that latex can stain so if you are unsure, test it on some scrap.

Note: Latex has two different sides. There is a shiny, outer side and a duller inner side. Depending on the manufacturer and type, this can be quite obvious or require a bit of inspection. A patch should match with the rest of the suit, so if you are patching on the inner side, the inner side should be showing. Further, you usually will want to mark the inside of the garment so that it is not visible when worn.

2. Cut

This is best done with a rotary blade (like a pizza cutter). As latex is a stretchy material, any knife (even sharp craft knives) will pull the material before cutting, which can be difficult to deal with. Use of a ruler along straight edges is useful, though it is advisable to not leave pointy corners as this can provide a point of tensions for future rips. The corners can be rounded using the cutter or some sharp scissors

3. Glue

Both areas to be glued together should be clean. Dust or other material should be wiped using the cleaner from the surface to give good contact.

There are two standard types of glue: latex milk (water-based) and solvent-based. The latex milk is a white liquid that dries clear and solid. This means if it is applied with ridges, these will be seen in the seam. This can be used to create a seam effect such as cross-hatching, or applied smooth.

The solvent-based glue is translucent and dries clear, and should be without texture.

Either way, it is preferable to use a tool that provides a clean application. This is especially important for the latex milk as any ridges in the glue will be seen. There is more leeway with the solvent-based glue, as this dries flat like paint. For a patch, usually the whole of the patching latex should be glued and an equivalent area of the garment glued.

Once applied, allow time to dry. Both glues need time to dry so try not to disturb the area around them too much, as dust might settle in the seam. This can be spead up using a heat gun. The glue should be dry and non sticky to the touch.

4. Apply

With the two sides glued and dried, these can be placed together. Careful take the patching latex, avoiding as much contact with the glue as possible, and place it over the area to patch. Be careful not to stretch either latex when applying as this will contort after. Starting at one edge, gently lay the patch onto the garment. If at any point a mistake is made, don't worry, this can be peeled back. If this was lightly applied, there should be minimal resistance to pealing it off.

Once it has been placed fully down, gently go back over and ensure the contact at all points as finger pressure level. Doing it gently first allows for the latex to be pushed to the right place.

Finally, using a roller, apply stronger pressure to ensure the contact between the rubber. Rolling several different ways can help.

5. Clean

Excess glue can be wiped away using the cleaner. Talcing the area can also prevent the garment from sticking to itself, and show any areas where glue residue still is.

It is best practice to leave the garment for 24h, allowing the latex to settle.